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Your First Day Walking Magazine Street in New Orleans

Your First Day Walking Magazine Street in New Orleans

Magazine Street runs six miles, and only about two of them matter on a first visit. This is the walk, with the timings, the prices and the doors that will turn you away.

Magazine Street begins a few blocks in from the river at the downtown end and runs the better part of six miles to Audubon Park, which is more street than anyone should attempt in a day. The useful thing to know is that it isn't really one street. It's four or five stretches of shopfronts strung end to end, separated by blocks of shotgun houses, tyre shops and nothing much. Learn where those gaps fall, ride the bus across them, and a first day here settles into six or seven unhurried hours with a world-class museum at one end and a proper dinner at the other.

Start at the downtown end while the shops are still locked

Almost nothing on Magazine opens before ten, which makes the first part of the morning easy to allocate. The National WWII Museum (Warehouse District) sits at the downtown end of the street and opens 9am to 5pm daily, closed on Mardi Gras Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Admission is $27 for adults, $23.50 for seniors, $17.50 for military and K-12 students, and free for WWII veterans and children under four.

The National WWII Museum, New Orleans

Its size shapes the rest of your day. This is a campus of pavilions rather than a single hall, and doing it justice takes a full day on its own. If Magazine Street is the plan, arrive at opening, pick two galleries and go deep rather than skimming all of them, and be back on the pavement by 11.30. It is also by a distance the most group-capable stop on the whole walk: group rates apply from ten people through group sales on 504-528-1944 extension 222, and there are two-hour small-group guided tours (Museum Highlights, Home Front, and Europe & Pacific) if you'd rather be led than wander. Payment is due 72 hours ahead, so it's a booking you sort before you travel, not on the morning.

From the museum the shops don't begin immediately. It's about a mile of quiet blocks before the retail picks up: pleasant for orientation, and entirely skippable on the Magazine bus if the heat is doing its usual thing.

Breakfast, and the coffee stop you'll want again later

Molly's Rise and Shine (Lower Garden District) is the best-judged breakfast on the street and sits in the Michelin Guide selection, which for a counter-service room this small is a mildly comic combination. You order at the till, seat yourself, and there are no reservations. Reckon on $15 to $25 a head. It runs 8am to 2pm Wednesday to Monday and closes Tuesday, so it is strictly a morning proposition and strictly a small-party one: two to four works, six will be eating standing up on the pavement.

Molly's Rise and Shine, New Orleans

If it's Tuesday, or the queue has gone sideways, keep walking. Trumpet and Drum Coffee House (Garden District) sits further up on the busiest shopping block and opens 7am to 7pm every day of the week, which makes it the most reliably open door on the whole route. Coffee and a pastry runs $5 to $10; the pastries come from local bakers rather than an in-house oven, and the room has enough space that a small group can actually sit together. No bookings, and none needed. Mark it now, because you will want it again around three o'clock.

Trumpet and Drum Coffee House, New Orleans

The boutique blocks

Aidan Gill for Men (Lower Garden District) is one of the rare Magazine Street addresses that is an experience rather than a transaction: a genuine period barbershop rather than a themed one, with an outfitter's shop attached. The shop half is free to browse and small groups are welcome, complete with a complimentary Guinness or Irish whiskey and cigars on the back patio, but the chair itself needs booking ahead. A cut or a hot-towel shave lands in the $50 to $80 range; retail starts around $10. It opens Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm, and closes Sunday and Monday, which is the most common way visitors miss it entirely.

Aidan Gill for Men, New Orleans

A few doors along, Trashy Diva (Lower Garden District) is the city's best-known repro-vintage label, designed and made here and sold here, with dresses running roughly $150 to $250. The shop is compact, a browse in twos and threes rather than a coach party, and there are two related addresses worth knowing: the separate lingerie shop next door at 2050, and a second branch over on Royal Street if you miss this one. The shoe boutique that used to share 2050 has closed, so don't go looking for it.

Trashy Diva, New Orleans

Where the street meets the Garden District

A block off Magazine, Garden District Book Shop (Garden District) is the natural hinge between the shopping and the grand houses behind it. It sits inside The Rink, a small courtyard of units that gives a group somewhere to disperse while two of you browse, and it keeps unusually civilised hours, 9am to 8pm on weekdays and 9am to 7pm at weekends, which makes it one of the few stops still usable after dinner. It has a long association with Anne Rice, and stock runs from $10 to $40 for general titles, higher for signed firsts.

Garden District Book Shop, New Orleans

One correction before you plan the detour: Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, immediately opposite, remains closed to visitors. A great many older itineraries still send you there. Walk the residential blocks instead. Prytania, First, Third and Fourth carry the architecture people actually come for, and the New Orleans guide covers how the district fits against the rest of the city.

Antiques, vintage, and the stop that deserves a full hour

Magazine Antique Mall (Garden District) is the city's oldest and largest antiques mall and the one shopping stop on this walk that repays an hour rather than ten minutes, with dealer booths running from a few dollars of costume jewellery up into four figures for furniture. It's free to wander and big enough to absorb a group without anyone feeling herded. It also has the tightest hours on the street: 12pm to 5pm, daily. Five hours, and that's it. Build the middle of your afternoon around it or you'll arrive to a locked door.

Magazine Antique Mall, New Orleans

Funky Monkey (Garden District) has been trading since 1997 and holds the deepest vintage rail on Magazine, plus a clothing-exchange programme if you're travelling with something you're willing to part with. Prices sit in the $20 to $80 band. The store is small, so this is a ones-and-twos browse, and the hours shift by day: 11am to 6pm Monday to Wednesday, 11am to 7pm Thursday to Saturday, and 12pm to 6pm on Sunday.

Funky Monkey, New Orleans

Lunch without losing the afternoon

Joey K's Restaurant & Bar (Garden District) has been doing Creole pot cooking for more than forty years, red beans, fried seafood and po-boys, at local prices of $15 to $30 a head. It's also the best sit-down group option on the street by a wide margin, with a private function room and a private balcony you can book, which nothing else nearby can offer. It opens 11am to 9pm Monday to Saturday and closes Sunday, and that Sunday closure catches out more visitors than any other single fact on this walk.

Joey K's Restaurant & Bar, New Orleans

If you'd rather lunch took twenty minutes than an hour, Mahony's Po-Boys & Seafood (Irish Channel edge) is the purpose-built version: dressed po-boys at $14 to $22, open 11am to 8pm every day, no reservations, and enough room across the porch, the dining room and the bar to take a medium-sized group arriving unannounced. Happy hour runs 5pm to 8pm Monday to Friday, useful if your day slides.

Mahony's Po-Boys & Seafood, New Orleans

The patio hour

The Bulldog (Garden District) is where a walking day naturally stalls for an hour, and it's built for exactly that: a sprawling patio that swallows a crowd, more than fifty nitrogen-pumped drafts and over a hundred bottles, and a shelf of Gambit awards for Best Bar, Best Patio and Best Dog Friendly Bar. Pints run $6 to $9 and pub food $12 to $20. It's open 11am to midnight, and to 1am on Friday and Saturday.

The Bulldog, New Orleans

There is one hard limit: it is strictly 21 and over. If you're travelling with teenagers, they will not be admitted however old they look, and everyone in your party should carry photo ID. Families are better off pointing the late afternoon at the sno-ball stand further up and drinking later.

Uptown for records, oysters and shaved ice

The Uptown blocks are where the shopping thins and the eating and browsing get serious. Peaches Records (Uptown) has been family-run since 1975 and carries the deepest New Orleans music selection on the street, which makes it the single best place on this walk to buy something you genuinely cannot get at home. LPs run roughly $15 to $40, browsing is free, the floor is big enough for a group, and it hosts in-store events and open mics. Hours are 10am to 7pm Monday to Saturday and 10am to 5pm on Sunday.

Peaches Records, New Orleans

Casamento's Restaurant (Uptown) has been serving since 1919 and the oyster loaf is the reason people stand in line, but read the calendar first. It shuts entirely for June, July and August, and even in season it opens only Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 2pm, plus Thursday to Saturday 5.30pm to 9pm. The room is tiny, there are no reservations, and at peak the queue is out of the door. Realistically it's a pair or a foursome, at $25 to $45 a head. Check before you build a day around it.

Casamento's Restaurant, New Orleans

Hansen's Sno-Bliz (Uptown, a short walk off Magazine) opened in 1934 and is believed to be the oldest sno-ball stand in the country. The texture is the point: finely shaved rather than crushed, nothing like a snow cone. It costs $5 to $9. It's seasonal, running March to October, roughly Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 6pm, so a September walk catches the tail of the season. It's standing room with a pavement queue and effectively nowhere to sit, which is fine for a group walking up and hopeless for a group wanting to rest.

Hansen's Sno-Bliz, New Orleans

Dinner at the Uptown end

Shaya (Uptown) won the James Beard award for Best New Restaurant and remains the most internationally legible dinner on Magazine: modern Israeli cooking, bread from a wood oven, $50 to $80 a head. It takes reservations and runs proper private dining and banquet bookings, so it's the one address here that will handle a booked party of twelve without visible strain. Reserve well ahead; walking in on a Saturday is optimism. Open 11am to 9pm Sunday to Thursday and to 10pm Friday and Saturday.

Shaya, New Orleans

A short walk away, La Petite Grocery (Uptown) is the Michelin Guide-listed bistro where Justin Devillier won James Beard Best Chef: South, and the blue-crab beignets are the order. It's $55 to $85 a head and reservations are essential. The room is refined and fairly compact: excellent for six, wrong for sixteen. It serves lunch Tuesday to Sunday as well as dinner nightly, which makes it a good grown-up midday alternative if you'd rather eat properly at one o'clock and keep the evening loose.

La Petite Grocery, New Orleans

Who fits where, and which doors will stop you

Magazine Street is not equally hospitable to every shape of party, and that's worth being blunt about before you book anything.

Groups of eight or more have four genuinely comfortable stops: the WWII Museum with group rates and a booked tour, Magazine Antique Mall, Peaches Records, and The Bulldog's patio, plus Joey K's if you reserve the function room or the balcony, and Shaya if you go through private dining. Everything else on this list is a small room. Molly's, Trashy Diva, Funky Monkey and Casamento's are two-to-four propositions, and no amount of good humour changes that.

Couples have the run of the street. Families should plan around the 21-and-over door at The Bulldog and point instead at Hansen's, Peaches and Mahony's. Anyone who hates queueing should treat Casamento's and Hansen's as opportunistic: walk past, look at the line, decide.

Getting around, paying and timing the day

The Magazine bus, route 11, runs the length of the street and is the right tool for the two long gaps: the museum up to the boutique blocks, and the Irish Channel stretch up to the Uptown restaurants. Fares are low and a day pass costs less than two singles; buy through the transit authority's app and check the current fare there rather than trusting an older figure. Rideshare is plentiful along the whole street. Driving is the worst option, because street parking is metered, tight and enforced with enthusiasm.

Cards work at every stop on this list, but carry $20 to $40 in small notes for Hansen's, for tips, and for the antiques mall booths. Tipping runs 18-20% in sit-down restaurants and a dollar or two a drink at a bar.

The constraints that actually bite are the opening times. Magazine Antique Mall opens only 12pm to 5pm; Aidan Gill closes Sunday and Monday; Joey K's closes Sunday; Molly's closes Tuesday; Casamento's vanishes for the whole summer; Hansen's stops at the end of October. A Wednesday, Thursday or Friday catches the most doors open at once. Start at 9am and you'll be sitting down to dinner around 7pm, having walked perhaps three miles in total with two bus hops.

Done modestly, with the museum, breakfast, a po-boy, a coffee, a pint and a sno-ball, the day comes to about $75 to $90 a head. Add dinner at Shaya or La Petite Grocery and you're at $130 to $170 before you buy anything. Staying in the Lower Garden District or the Garden District puts you on the street itself and removes the taxi at both ends; compare rates on the New Orleans hotel search before committing to a French Quarter room you'll spend the week commuting out of.

Good to know

FAQs

How much of Magazine Street can you realistically walk in one day?

About two of the six miles are worth walking. The shopfronts come in clusters (the Lower Garden District boutique blocks, the antiques and vintage stretch around the Garden District, the Uptown restaurant blocks) with quiet gaps between them. Walk the clusters, take the route 11 Magazine bus across the gaps, and you'll cover roughly three miles on foot over six or seven hours.

Which day of the week is best for a Magazine Street day out?

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday or Saturday. Joey K's and Aidan Gill for Men are shut on Sunday, Aidan Gill and Casamento's on Monday, Molly's Rise and Shine on Tuesday. Magazine Antique Mall opens daily but only from 12pm to 5pm, so anchor the afternoon there whichever day you pick.

Can you combine Magazine Street with the Garden District mansions?

Yes. The grand streets sit one to three blocks inland, and Garden District Book Shop inside The Rink is the natural crossing point. Walk Prytania, First, Third and Fourth for the architecture. Do not plan on Lafayette Cemetery No. 1: it is closed to visitors, whatever the older itineraries still say.

Where can a group of ten or more eat and drink on Magazine Street?

Joey K's is the strongest option; book the private function room or the balcony. Shaya takes private dining and banquet bookings for a proper sit-down. The Bulldog's patio absorbs a crowd but is strictly 21 and over. Mahony's handles a medium group across its porch, dining room and bar with no reservation. Most other shops and restaurants on the street are small rooms.

Which places need booking ahead, and which are walk-in only?

Reserve well in advance for Shaya and La Petite Grocery, and book the chair at Aidan Gill for Men. Museum group rates and guided tours need payment 72 hours ahead. Molly's Rise and Shine, Mahony's, Casamento's, Trumpet and Drum and every shop on the walk are walk-in only, and at Casamento's that means queueing.

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